Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Her latest collection for spring/summer 2016 reaches new levels of sophistication
14 Сентября 2015
Victoria Beckham surfed into the big league with a colourful, classy and adult collection. It eradicated once and for all the Spice Girl tag — or any idea that she is not a full-on designer.
VB, as she is known, entered new territory with colour, pattern and longer skirts that made the few short dresses seem to belong to a different time and place.
Perhaps they did. Because it is noticeable that since Victoria stopped showing her junior Victoria Victoria Beckham line, her fashion image has grown in stature.
Most noticeable was the treatment of the female body. Maybe it is personal, because the designer is now 41, but there was a graceful cut of clothes that just kissed the figure. The tight corsets and taut mini skirts of her early collections are long forgotten.
“It’s about attitude, rather than one particular look — I don’t wear a lot of print, but I challenge myself, finding ways to make it work,” said VB, whose ever-supportive husband David and eldest son Brooklyn were front row.
The show opened with checks — a gateway to the hibiscus flowers and urban surf prints that followed. That Hawaiian influence was not such a new idea, but handled in a subtle way.
My pen (yes, some journalists still use them!) went into overdrive as I noted a slender white dress with enough kick in the calf-length skirt to take a stride on wedge-sole sandals.
In this spring/summer 2016 collection there was freedom in platform shoes and the way the square tops stood away from the body over below-the-knee skirts.
Then there were the soft-focus prints. It is a year since Victoria surprised her show audience with rose patterns. This year the prints were more abstract, but a bold presence. To this was added a judicious use of colour, such as a purple top and bright mustard-yellow skirt.
The only element that had not changed was Victoria’s own look: an evening-style black dress worn with super high heels, as if she was off to a celeb event.
I asked her if she was going to follow the fresh look that appeared on the runway. “I will! I will!” she said.
Спасибо! Первое письмо — скоро у вас на почте!