Vogue International Editor Suzy Menkes is the best-known fashion journalist in the world. After 25 years commenting on fashion for the International Herald Tribune (rebranded recently as The International New York Times), Suzy Menkes now writes exclusively for Vogue online, covering fashion worldwide.
Paris Fashion Week Day One
26 Сентября 2014
Vionnet had a vision, a theme and sensitive presentation – and it took the brand a step forward in flat Grecian sandals.
The idea of showing pale Grecian-style dresses, wide cummerbunds at the waist, and having a shadow of the runway figure dance, stretch and walk differently that the real-life thing – by some digital wizardry – was smart, subtle and modern.
The story was, as ever – considering the history of Madeleine Vionnet – fine fabric draped across the body, perhaps in two different tones such as white and beige, black and white or with a dash of Grecian blue.
But there were many other elements added from Goga Ashkenazi and her design team, who all took a bow. There were brief dresses, shorts, narrow pants and short, pleated toga skirts.
And then, amongst all this grace, like the snaking belt that infiltrated a waistline, came the dreaded word: sex. Visible bras, cut-outs between the legs revealing stocking suspenders, and harnesses across the chest.
The elegant, balletic look of the collection just didn’t need this sexing up.
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